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The Blue Butterfly is designed to showcase brands that are stylish, innovative, sustainable and healthy so that consumers can trust that their favorite brands are walking the green walk as well as talking the green talk.

Nominated brands are evaluated on five areas: environmental impact, labor conditions/human rights, community responsibility, suppliers, and manufacturing, and those that score high enough get to join the Blue Butterfly clan, alongside the likes of Stella McCartney, YSL, Burberry and Gucci.

Why the blue butterfly? Blue butterflies used to be extinct in the UK thanks to their popularity among insect collectors. However, they were successfully imported from Sweden in the 1980s and are still thriving today in the south west of England – a triumphant example of social responsibility and environmental concern coming good.

Positive Luxury was created by Diana Verde Nieto, founder of the global sustainability communications consultancy Clownfish, which was acquired by Aegis Media in 2008. In March, 2011, the World Economic Forum nominated Diana as a Young Global Leader in recognition of her capacity to spread enthusiasm for sustainability and environmental conservationism causes across the globe.

Sophyto is thrilled to be recognised by this mark as social responsibility and sustainability are central to everything we do as a company.

If you care about these things too and want to choose products created with sustainability issues in mind, you can check out all the brands that have won this prestigious mark on Positive Luxury.

In esthetics, when we talk about penetration, it is important to specify the level at which a particular substance can penetrate. The level of penetration of a cosmetic formula is directly related to its depth of action as well as the purpose/goal/aim of that formula.

Levels of Percutaneous Penetration:

• Contact: Where cosmetic formulas make contact with the outermost layer of the skin, the stratum corneum, but do not penetrate. Their main action is cleansing the skin and are easily wiped clean. All facial cleansers are considered contact cosmetics. Products from the Sophyto range with contact properties: Purifying Silken Cleanser; Natural Glycolic Foaming Cleanser; Dual Action Exfoliating Treatment.
• Impregnation: Where cosmetic formulas stay on the surface of the skin to protect them and/or provide color. These formulas should be easily removed and they do not penetrate the skin. Sunscreens and color cosmetics are some examples of impregnation cosmetics.
• Absorption: Where some active ingredients can make their way down  into the 12th layer of the stratum corneum to protect them against the environmental aggressors. Day and night moisturizers fall into this category. Products from the Sophyto range with absorption properties: Omega Daily Moisturizer; Balancing Daily Moisturizer; Marine Peptide Brightening Treatment.
• Penetration: Where formulas of small molecular size, such as those containing fat-soluble vitamins and amino acids, can penetrate into the spinous and basal layers of the epidermis. Products from the Sophyto range with penetration properties: pH Optimizing Restorative Toner; Anti Aging Antioxidant Serum; Multivitamin Facial Serum and Tocotrienol Super Skin Concentrate.
• Reabsorption: Where a formula crosses the epidermis and reaches the blood vessels located at the dermal and subcutaneous level in order to be distributed throughout the body. Substances with such characteristics are considered drugs and not cosmetics.

What’s the difference between a topical drug and a cosmetic?

• A cosmetic is a product that is applied locally and has a local effect.
• A drug (topical) is a product that is applied locally but has a systemic (further reaching) effect.

What’s the deal with penetration enhancers?

A penetration enhancer is, as its name indicates, an agent that improves percutaneous penetration of ingredients to provide fast and long-lasting results. While not all penetration enhancers are toxic per se, it is a fact that they make penetration of toxic/harsh chemicals even easier.

Commonly used penetration enhancers:

• Aloe Vera
• Bisabolol
• Lecithin
• Anionic Surfactants such as SLS (toxic)
• Fat-soluble vitamins (Synthetic vitamin A is toxic – if Vitamin A is required, it should ALWAYS be applied in whole food form)
• AHAs & BHAs  (pH disruptor)
• Liposomes
• Microcapsules
• Micronized particles (toxic)
• Nanoparticles (toxic)

If a penetration enhancer is to be used, it is important to take two aspects into consideration:

• The penetration enhancer MUST NOT be toxic.
• Toxic/harsh ingredients MUST NOT be added to the formula.

As we said before, the so-called ‘selective permeability’ of the skin is not fail-safe. It is important to remember that several commonly used chemicals in skin care do end up in our bloodstream and are carcinogenic, genotoxic, immunotoxicants, endocrine disruptors, etc.

Facilitating the penetration of noxious substances would be a humongous mistake – one that could potentially be extremely detrimental to our health.

Ishtar Magally Mobarak

]]> http://www.sophyto.com/blog/2012/05/14/are-your-cosmetics-getting-under-your-skin/feed/ 0 http://www.sophyto.com/blog/2012/05/09/the-good-the-bad-and-the-nasty-sodium-hydroxide/ http://www.sophyto.com/blog/2012/05/09/the-good-the-bad-and-the-nasty-sodium-hydroxide/#comments Wed, 09 May 2012 14:25:07 +0000 Elspeth Waters http://www.sophyto.com/blog/?p=1534 Continue reading →]]> While high concentrations of neat Sodium Hydroxide would be damaging to the skin, used correctly it can make an effective pH regulator (to ensure natural skin care products remain in the optimally acidic range of pH4.6-5, at which skin thrives).

Formula: NaOH

Systematic Name: Sodium Oxidanide

Also listed as: sodium hydrate; sodium hydroxide solution; sodium hydroxide (NA OH), Lewis_Red devil lye, caustic soda, soda lye, lye.

Definition: Sodium hydroxide is a white, corrosive, strongly alkaline and reactive compound produced by electrolysis of salt and water.

It is used in the manufacture of aluminum, paper, rayon, soap, sodium compounds and in the petroleum-refining process.

Sodium hydroxide acts as a pH buffering agent in cosmetics, to maintain the correct acid/alkali level of the product. For Sophyto products, we use it in a very diluted form and balanced with acidic components to avoid all of the dangers normally associated with sodium hydroxide and similar alkalis.

pH perfection: we use sodium hydroxide to ensure the mild acidity of the product is at the right level for the natural acid mantle of the skin which in turn helps support healthy skin maintenance.

Sodium hydroxide is permitted in food processing and by organic certification organizations.

In the cosmetic industry, sodium hydroxide is found in: cleanser, shampoo, bath products, hair dye, hair straightening products, foot powder, makeup, nail products, suntan lotion.

Dangers:

• Linked to occupational hazards (European Union – Classification & Labelling);
• Non-reproductive system toxicant (Environment Canada Domestic Substance List);
• Usage as food additive is limited;
• Potential skin and eye irritant;
• Data gaps: more studies have yet to be conducted to assess its safety.

Our Rating: Good (if used in low concentrations).

Warning: Avoid direct contact with skin and eyes as it could lead to burns and blindness.

Ishtar Magally Mobarak

]]> http://www.sophyto.com/blog/2012/05/09/the-good-the-bad-and-the-nasty-sodium-hydroxide/feed/ 0 http://www.sophyto.com/blog/2012/04/02/sophyto-purifying-silken-cleanser-wins-best-innovation-award/ http://www.sophyto.com/blog/2012/04/02/sophyto-purifying-silken-cleanser-wins-best-innovation-award/#comments Mon, 02 Apr 2012 18:20:19 +0000 Elspeth Waters http://www.sophyto.com/blog/?p=1528 Continue reading →]]>

We are thrilled to announce that our Purifying Silken Cleanser received the award for Best Innovation in Cosmetics at this year’s Natural and Organic Awards, held in London last night, in association with UK Soil Association.

And, if that wasn’t enough excitement, we were actually the ONLY brand to be shortlisted for the category, with our pH Optimizing Restorative Toner and Tocotrienol Super Skin Concentrate also shortlisted for the award so we were a shoe-in to win from the start!

This is the first award Sophyto has won and we couldn’t be happier. The brand prides itself on being at the forefront of innovation in organic and natural beauty products so to be recognised in this category is a huge honor. A massive thank you to all the judges for loving the products and recognizing the quality and efficacy we strive every day to achieve.

While

Formula: CH₃(CH₂)nC(=O)N(CH₂CH₂OH)₂

Also listed as: coconut diethanolamide; cocoyl diethanolamide; coconut fatty acid diethanolamide; coco amides, n,n-bis (2-hydroxyethyl); diethanolamine coconut fatty acid condensate; n,n-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) – amides, coco; n,n-bis (2-hydroxyethyl)- coco amides; n,n-bis (2-hydroxyethyl)- coco fatty acid amide.

Definition: a viscous liquid produced by reacting coconut fatty acids with diethanolamine, a wetting agent used in cosmetics.

Cocamide DEA can boost and stabilize the foaming capacity in a formula. It increases the viscosity (aqueous portion) in cosmetics and also works as an emulsifying agent.

According to Dr. Samuel Epstein, Professor of Environmental Health at the University of Illinois, “repeated skin applications of DEA-based detergents resulted in a major increase in the incidence of two cancers – liver and kidney cancers.”

In the cosmetic industry, cocamide DEA is found in: facial cleanser, soap, body wash, body lotion, shampoo, bath products, and hair dyes.

Dangers:

• Linked to cancer (US EPA, Office Pesticide Programs 2002);
• Toxic for non-reproductive system (Environment Canada Domestic Substance List);
• Immune system toxicant (National Library of Medicine HazMap);
• Strong skin irritant (RTECS Journal of the American College of Toxicology 1986);
• Data gaps: more studies have yet to be conducted to assess its safety.

Our Rating: Nasty.

Warning: People prone to skin sensitivity/allergies should avoid Cocamide DEA as it may cause contact dermatitis.

Diethanolamine can form nitrosamines which have been linked to cancer and hormonal disruption. (health-report.co.uk/harmful_toxic_toiletries_chemicals_cancer_causing.html

Ishtar Magally Mobarak, Bio-esthetician.

]]> http://www.sophyto.com/blog/2012/03/21/the-good-the-bad-and-the-nasty-cocamide-dea/feed/ 0 http://www.sophyto.com/blog/2012/03/16/anti-aging-antioxidant-serum-featured-in-vogues-gold-blends/ http://www.sophyto.com/blog/2012/03/16/anti-aging-antioxidant-serum-featured-in-vogues-gold-blends/#comments Fri, 16 Mar 2012 21:31:51 +0000 Elspeth Waters http://www.sophyto.com/blog/?p=1519 Continue reading →]]>

Check it out! The Anti Aging Antioxidant Serum is featured in the latest copy of British Vogue in a piece on stellar multi-tasking skincare and beauty products. Perfect booster for city skin, they say? We couldn’t agree more! This serum is chock full of protective polyphenols which fight the anti-aging effect of environmental stressors and pollutants.

We are super-thrilled-delighted to announce that THREE of our organic skincare products have been named finalists for both the Natural & Organic Awards, in association with UK Soil Association and Natural Products Magazine, and the inaugural FreeFrom Skin Care Awards, in association with SkinsMatter.com and The Allergy and FreeFrom Show.

The judging panel at The Natural & Organic Awards shortlisted three Sophyto products for their newly introduced ‘Innovation in Cosmetics’ Award – Purifying Silken Cleanser, pH Optimizing Restorative Toner and celebrity favourite, Tocotrienol Super Skin Concentrate.

These awards have become the benchmark for excellence and set the standard for innovation, quality and commitment in the natural and organic sector; and being chosen as winners and finalists for these awards is a mark of great prestige in a very competitive industry. The winners will be announced at an illustrious ceremony with an ‘Around the World’ themed dinner, on the evening of April 1 at the award-winning Novotel London West, near Kensington Olympia.

If that wasn’t exciting enough(!), our Tocotrienol Super Skin Concentrate was also shortlisted in the FreeFrom Skin Care Awards’ Face Care category. These awards are being held for the first time this year, following the success of The FreeFrom Food Awards held annually in conjunction with the Allergy and FreeFrom Show.

The judging panel at SkinsMatter.com explained the depth of criteria for the skin and bodycare categories: “We were assessing on many different levels,” said Alex Gazzola, deputy editor of SkinsMatter.com. “These included organic, natural and ‘free from’ qualities, level of beneficial ingredients, effectiveness, functionality, innovation, ease-of-use, value for money and packaging. Naturally, we also looked for clarity of ingredient information, especially in conveying the presence or absence of allergens or undesirable additives.”

Sophyto founder Karen Sinclair Drake is extremely gratified to have been recognised for both awards. “Our research and development has always been focused on cutting edge innovation, quality and efficacy,” she said. “We are very proud to have been recognised for these continued efforts in promoting products that are safe for all skin types as this is an issue we all care so much about. Our thanks to both organisations for being nominated and a hearty good luck to all the other wonderful brands!”

As you know, Sophyto skincare is always gluten free and free from parabens, artificial fillers and binders and all other known toxins; building awareness about avoiding gluten and other potential allergens/irritants/toxins in skincare is extremely important to us so we are absolutely thrilled to be recognized for these efforts.

Keep those fingers double crossed now, please…!

Not

Formula: NaC₆H₁₁O₇

Systematic name: sodium (2R,3S,4R,5R)-2,3,4,5,6-pentahydroxyhexanoate

Also listed as: sodium d-gluconate; pmp sodium gluconate; monosodium gluconate; monosodium salt d-gluconic acid; gluconic acid sodium salt; d-gluconic acid, monosodium salt; glonsen; pasexon 100t.

Definition: Sodium gluconate is a yellow to white crystalline sodium salt derived from the fermentation of gluconic acid.

Gluconic acid and its derivatives are water-soluble, occurring naturally in fruit, honey, wine and kombucha tea.

Sodium gluconate is used as an additive in the food and pharmaceutical industries as well as a conditioning and chelating agent (removal of heavy metal ions) in beauty formulations.

In the cosmetic industry, sodium gluconate is found in: natural facial cleansers, moisturizer, soap, body gel, bath products, shampoo, hair conditioner, and mouthwash.

Dangers:

• Data gaps: more studies have yet to be conducted to assess its safety

Our Rating: Good.

Warning: Avoid eye contact as it might cause irritation.

Ishtar Magally Mobarak

Not

Formula: C₁₄H₂₇NaO₅S

Systematic name: sodium 2-dodecanoyloxyethanesulfonate

Also listed as: sodium lauroyl isethionate sodim lauroyl isethionate; sodium salt ethanesulfonic acid, 2-hydroxy-laurate; ethanesulfonic acid, 2-hydroxy-,laurate, sodium salt; laurate sodium salt ethanesulfonic acid, 2-hydroxy2-sulfoethyl laurate sodium salt.

Definition: Sodium lauroyl methyl isethionate is an extremely mild, yet effective and easy to rinse, synthetic detergent produced by reacting lauryl alcohol with sulfate and neutralizing sodium carbonate. It produces a dense foam and leaves a soft, luxurious after-feel.

Sodium lauroyl methyl isethionate is used mainly as a gentle primary or secondary cleansing agent, an emulsifier, surfactant, wetting and degreasing agent.

In the cosmetic industry, sodium lauroyl methyl isethionate is found in: soap, body gel, facial cleanser, shampoo, and bubble bath.

Dangers:

• Data gaps: more studies have yet to be conducted to assess its safety.

Our Rating: Good.

Warning: may dry and irritate the skin, especially sensitive skin.

Ishtar Magally Mobarak

Like your lips with a subtle sting of color à la Anne and Julia? Then we guarantee you’ll LOVE Lipstick Icons in Dahlia. Dress her up, dress her down, Dahlia is one friend you can rely on to put some pep in your step at a moment’s notice.

Lipstick Icons are part of the natural makeup range Color Actives Cosmetics, which combines the anti-aging, nourishing benefits of natural skincare with the coverage and color of mineral and fruit-based makeup. And they are all LEAD FREE and CARMINE FREE - no crushed beetles here, folks!

Color Actives Cosmetics will be launching later this year, so watch this space for more info…